Collection: Vehicle Finishing Products

The main thing that sets Diamondbrite Speedy Wax apart is how flexible it is to use. You can either spray it on or apply it by hand - whatever works best for you and the job you're doing.

If you're in a hurry or dealing with a large car, just spray it on and wipe it off. It's that simple. But if you want to take your time and really work on the details, you can apply it by hand with a cloth just like traditional wax. That's something you don't get with most other products.

What we really like about it is that it's non-abrasive, so you don't have to worry about damaging your paintwork. It'll work safely on pretty much any car paint, and you'll get a really deep, glossy shine that makes your car look fantastic.

The cream polish formula spreads really evenly, which means you won't get those patchy areas you sometimes see with other waxes. And because it wipes off so easily, you won't be spending ages trying to buff off stubborn residue.

For professional valeters, it's brilliant because you can cover large areas quickly with the spray method, but still do detailed work by hand where needed. You get professional results without having to invest in loads of different products or complicated application methods.

If you're looking for something that gives you great results without the hassle, and saves you time whether you're a professional or just want your car to look its best, Speedy Wax really delivers on both convenience and quality.

Think of it as creating an invisible shield on your wheels. The Alloy Wheel Protector uses nano-technology - basically tiny particles that are so small you can't see them - to coat your wheel surface and fill in all the microscopic pores.

The clever bit is what happens when brake dust and road grime try to stick to your wheels. Instead of embedding into the wheel surface like they normally would, they just sit on top of this protective layer. It's like the difference between trying to write on paper versus trying to write on glass - the dirt just won't stick properly.

This is brilliant because brake dust is your wheels' worst enemy. Those iron particles from your brake pads normally embed themselves right into the wheel surface and cause orange staining that's really hard to shift. With the protector on, they can't get through to damage the actual wheel.

When it comes to cleaning time, you'll notice the difference immediately. A simple rinse will remove most of the contamination, and what's left comes off easily with mild cleaning products. No more scrubbing away with harsh wheel
cleaners trying to shift stubborn brake dust.

The coating is completely invisible, so your wheels look exactly the same but perform much better. It typically lasts several months depending on how much you drive and what conditions you're driving in.

It's one of those products where you really notice the benefit when it comes to maintenance. Your wheels stay cleaner for longer, and when you do need to clean them, it's so much easier. Definitely worth doing if you want to keep your wheels looking their best.

You can absolutely do both, and that's what makes Speedy Wax so handy. You don't need any special equipment at all.

For hand application, just use a clean cloth or applicator pad. Put a small amount on the cloth and work it into the paint using circular motions or back and forth - whatever feels comfortable. Then buff it off with another clean cloth. It's just like using traditional wax, but much easier to remove.

The spray method is brilliant for larger areas or when you want to work quickly. Just spray it lightly over a section and immediately buff it with a clean microfibre cloth. No waiting around for it to dry or anything complicated like that.

Most people find they use both methods depending on what they're doing. Spray application is perfect for big flat panels like the bonnet or roof where you want to cover ground quickly. Hand application is great for detailed areas,
around trim, or anywhere you need more precision.

You don't need expensive equipment - a basic trigger spray bottle works fine if you want to spray it, and any decent cloth will do for hand application. The key is using clean tools so you don't introduce any contamination.

If you're running a business, the spray method can save you loads of time on
larger vehicles. But if you're just doing your own car and enjoy taking your time, hand application gives you that traditional feel with much better results
than old-school paste waxes.

The beauty of Speedy Wax is having the choice. Try both methods and see what works best for you and your situation.

This really depends on how much your car goes through, but I'll give you some practical guidelines.

For Speedy Wax, you're typically looking at every 2-4 months under normal conditions. But here's the thing - don't just go by the calendar. Your car will tell you when it needs more protection.

The best indicator is water beading. When you wash your car, the water should form nice round beads that roll off easily. If the water starts sheeting or sticking to the paint instead of beading up, that's your car saying "I need more wax please!"

Cars that live outside need more frequent applications than garage-kept vehicles. If you're in a coastal area with salt air, or somewhere with lots of pollution, you might need to reapply every 6-8 weeks. Harsh winter conditions with road salt can also reduce protection life significantly.

For the Alloy Wheel Protector, it's similar timing but watch for how easily your wheels clean. When brake dust starts getting harder to remove, or you notice more contamination sticking than usual, it's time for a fresh application.

If you're doing lots of motorway miles, you'll probably need more frequent applications because of increased contamination exposure. City driving is generally easier on protection products.

My advice? Start with a 3-month schedule and adjust based on what you see. Keep an eye on how easy cleaning becomes - when it starts getting harder to get things clean, or when water behaviour changes, that's your cue.

Quality preparation when you apply the products will help them last longer too. A properly applied coating will always outperform a rushed job, regardless of the product quality.

Preparation is absolutely crucial - it's probably 80% of getting good results. Rush this bit and even the best products won't perform properly.

Start with a proper wash using good car shampoo. You want to get all the loose dirt and grime off first. Don't be tempted to skip this because you think the paint looks clean enough - there's always more dirt than you think.

Next, you need to remove any embedded contamination. This is stuff that won't come off with washing - tree sap, tar spots, iron particles from brake
dust, that sort of thing. A clay bar treatment is the best way to do this. Run
your hand over the paint after washing - if it feels rough or you can feel little bumps, you need to clay it.

For wheels, this contamination removal step is even more important. Brake dust gets really embedded in wheel surfaces, and if you apply protection over the top of that, it won't bond properly and won't last.

Check your paint condition under good lighting. If you can see swirl marks, light scratches, or the paint looks dull, you might want to do some polishing before applying finishing products. Speedy Wax won't fix paint defects - it'll just highlight them.

Make sure everything is completely dry before you start applying products. Any water left on the surface will interfere with the bonding.

Work in shade if possible, and avoid really hot or cold conditions. Most
finishing products perform best when the surface temperature is comfortable to touch.

The final step is a quick wipe with a clean, lint-free cloth to remove any last traces of dust or contamination. Think of it as giving your paint a final inspection before the important bit.

Good preparation takes time, but it's time well spent. A properly prepared
surface will give you better results and longer-lasting protection.

Yes, both Speedy Wax and the Alloy Wheel Protector are designed to work safely on pretty much all modern vehicle finishes, but there are a few things to be aware of.

Speedy Wax is non-abrasive, so it's safe on single-stage paints, clear coat finishes, and even those newer ceramic-enhanced paint systems. Most cars from the last 20-30 years have clear coat finishes, and Speedy Wax works brilliantly on these.

If you've got an older car with single-stage paint (where the colour and clear coat are all in one layer), you might actually see even more dramatic results because these paints tend to benefit more from quality products.

The one thing to watch out for is specialty finishes - matte paint, satin finishes, or textured surfaces. These are designed not to be glossy, so using a product that enhances gloss might not give you the look you want. When in doubt, test in a small, hidden area first.

For recently repainted cars, give the paint time to cure properly - usually 30-90 days depending on the paint system. Fresh paint needs to outgas properly before you seal it up with wax or protection products.

The Alloy Wheel Protector works on most wheel finishes - painted wheels, powder-coated, polished aluminium. Again, if you've got something unusual like matte-finish wheels, you'd want to test first.

Here's a simple rule: if you're not sure about compatibility, find a small area that's not easily visible (like under a door handle or inside a wheel arch) and try the product there first. Leave it for a day or two and see how it looks.

Both products are formulated to be gentle while effective, but every paint job is slightly different. A quick test will give you confidence before you treat the whole vehicle.

The good news is that maintaining vehicles with these products applied is actually easier than maintaining untreated vehicles - that's kind of the point!

For washing, stick to pH-neutral car shampoos and gentle techniques. Avoid those harsh detergents or automatic car washes with brutal brushes that can strip your protection. The two-bucket method with a good wash mitt is perfect.

You'll probably notice that dirt comes off much more easily now. That's the protection working - contamination can't bond as strongly to the treated surface. Don't be tempted to get aggressive with the cleaning just because you can - gentle washing will keep your protection lasting longer.

Drying is important too. Use clean microfibre towels or a chamois, and try to avoid dragging them across the surface. Pat or blot rather than wipe wherever possible.

Deal with bird droppings, tree sap, and other nasty stuff quickly. The protection will make removal easier, but these things can still cause damage if left for weeks. A quick spray with clean water and gentle removal is usually all you need.

For the wheels, regular washing should be much easier now. The brake dust won't stick as stubbornly, so you can use milder wheel cleaners. This is better for both the protection and your wheels.

Keep an eye on the water beading behaviour. When the protection is working well, water should form nice round beads that roll off easily. When this starts to change, you know it's time to think about reapplication.

Don't use harsh polishes or cutting compounds over the top of your protection unless you're planning to reapply everything afterwards. These will remove the protective layer along with whatever you're trying to fix.

The key is being consistent with gentle, regular maintenance rather than letting things build up and then having to get
aggressive to clean them off.

This is a great question because they work in completely different ways, even though they're both trying to protect your vehicle.

Traditional wax like our Speedy Wax sits on top of your paint and creates a protective barrier. Think of it like putting a raincoat on - it's a layer that takes the hits from the environment instead of your paint. It gives you that lovely warm, deep gloss that people love, and it's really easy to apply and remove.

Nano-technology protection, like in our Alloy Wheel Protector, works at a much smaller level. Those nano particles actually penetrate into the tiny pores in your wheel surface and create a chemical bond. It's more like waterproofing fabric than putting a raincoat on - it changes the surface properties rather than just covering them.

The big difference is durability. Traditional wax typically lasts 2-4 months, while nano-technology coatings can go 6-12 months or even longer. But wax is much easier to remove and reapply when the time comes.

Application-wise, wax is straightforward - spray on, wipe off, job done. Nano-technology products usually need more precise application and sometimes specific environmental conditions to cure properly.

Performance varies too. Wax gives you immediate gloss enhancement and that classic 'wet look' depth. Nano coatings might be more subtle visually, but they're typically better at repelling contamination and making cleaning easier.

Cost-wise, nano products usually cost more upfront, but because they last longer, the cost per month of protection might actually be lower.

For most people, I'd suggest using both where appropriate. Traditional wax like Speedy Wax for your paintwork where you want that beautiful finish, and nano-technology for specific applications like wheels where durability and contamination resistance are more important than immediate visual impact.

They can actually complement each other really well in a complete vehicle protection strategy.

Environmental conditions have a massive impact on how well finishing products perform and how long they last. Understanding this helps you get the best value and results.

UV radiation is probably the biggest enemy. Constant sun exposure breaks down protective barriers over time and causes that chalky, faded look. Both our products have UV protection built in, but nothing lasts forever under intense sunlight. Cars that live outside in sunny climates will need more frequent reapplication than garage-kept vehicles.

Temperature extremes affect both application and longevity. Don't try to apply products in blazing heat - they'll dry too quickly and won't bond properly. Similarly, very cold conditions can prevent proper application. Aim for comfortable temperatures, ideally 15-25°C.

Humidity can interfere with application too. Very humid conditions might prevent proper curing, while extremely dry conditions can cause products to dry too fast. If you're in a very humid area, you might need to allow longer curing times.

Salt is a killer, whether it's from coastal air or winter road salt. It accelerates the breakdown of protective products and creates more aggressive contamination that your protection has to deal with. Coastal and winter-driving vehicles definitely need more frequent attention.

Pollution varies hugely depending on where you are. Urban areas with heavy traffic, industrial areas, or places with lots of dust all create different challenges. Your protection is working harder in these environments, so it won't last as long.

Seasonal changes matter too. Spring pollen, autumn leaves, winter salt, summer heat - each season brings different challenges that affect how long your protection lasts.

The key is adjusting your maintenance schedule based on what your car actually goes through. A car that does 30,000 motorway miles a year in all weather will need very different care from a weekend car that lives in a garage.

Monitor how your protection is performing rather than just following a fixed schedule. Your car will tell you what it needs if you pay attention to things like water beading and how easily it cleans.

The beauty of these products is that you don't need loads of expensive kit to get professional results. A few quality basics will do the job perfectly.

For Speedy Wax, you'll need clean microfibre cloths - and I mean really clean. Have separate cloths for application and buffing, because you don't want to mix the two jobs. Microfibre is much better than cotton or paper towels because it won't scratch and doesn't leave lint behind.

If you want to use the spray application method, you'll need a trigger spray bottle. Nothing fancy - a basic spray bottle from the cleaning aisle will work fine, as long as it's clean and hasn't had other chemicals in it.

For hand application, foam applicator pads work well, or you can just use a section of clean microfibre cloth. The key is having something that lets you control how much product you're applying.

Good lighting is really important but often overlooked. You need to see what you're doing, especially when checking for even coverage or missed spots. If you're working outside, try to work in shade. If you're in a garage, some extra
LED work lights make a huge difference.

For the Alloy Wheel Protector, you might want some detailing brushes to get into the intricate parts of your wheels where contamination likes to hide and where protection is most needed.

Clean water for rinsing and clean, lint-free cloths for drying are essential. Don't use the same cloths you use for general cleaning - keep some specifically for finishing work.

Nitrile gloves are worth having, especially if you're doing this regularly or have sensitive skin. They protect your hands while still letting you feel what you're doing.

The most important 'tool' is patience. Rushing the job will give you poor results no matter how good your equipment is. Take your time, work systematically, and don't try to do too much at once.

Quality tools will improve your results and make the job more enjoyable, but you don't need to spend a fortune. Clean, appropriate tools used properly will give you excellent results.